March 8, 2009 — Liz Buckalew sees the restaurant business as theater. After 30-some years in the business, her vision has never veered from the drama of presenting fine food in elegant surroundings with professional flair.
Her stage — Banana Tree Grille — could hardly be more dramatic, overlooking Charlotte Amalie Harbor, widely considered one of the finest views in the Caribbean. As a setting sun bids farewell, brightly lighted cruise ships sail away and the harbor is reflected in evening lights.
Buckalew first saw that harbor in 1972 from the deck of a cruise ship.
"I just knew I'd live here one day," she says — though she hardly knew she would wind up running one of the island's premier restaurants with a husband she had not yet met.
Buckalew's intuition paid off four years later when she moved from Connecticut to St. Thomas, met Jerry Buckalew from New Jersey — then tending bar at the old Quarterdeck Restaurant in Frenchtown — and set off on other adventures.
She loves talking about the early days working for attorney Edith Bornn.
"Those were wonderful times," she says. "She always comes to the restaurant for birthdays and Christmas."
Buckalew tried her hand at a few things, including running a frame shop, before finding her true calling when a friend, Susan MacPherson suggested joining her in hostessing at Harbor View Hotel restaurant.
The legendary old hotel, a gray wooden frame building with a terrace, baby-grand piano, linen tablecloths, pewter plates and impeccable service, was a breeding ground for Buckalew. She credits the owners of the hotel for her fine-dining expertise.
"Truly, I learned everything about running a restaurant from Lenore and Arlene," Buckalew says. "The art of making people feel welcome, the art of service — which is an art — how to make your guests feel welcome, how to manage your staff. I had excellent training."
Buckalew learned well. Much of the staff at Banana Tree has been there for years, including MacPherson, who worked as Buckalew's right hand at Entre Nous and the Grille for about 15 years, before moving back to the States.
In 1980, the Buckalews launched their first restaurant endeavor, partnering with J.C. Lannigan at the French NorthSide Entre Nous restaurant, which they left in 1984, moving to the present location in Bluebeard's Castle Hotel.
After 18 years as a formal French restaurant, they "recreated" the dining experience in 1997 with an old friend, chef Patrick Bellantoni from Connecticut. Banana Tree Grille was born, and the location stayed the same. The ambiance is less formal — there's no tableside service, and jackets aren't required.
The operation runs smoothly. Jerry runs the "back of the house," Liz runs the "front of the house" and Bellantoni creates the incredible food. He won the local 2009 Chef of the Year award.
The operation runs like a well-oiled clock. Of course, nothing's that simple, and that's where Liz Buckalew applies her theatarical talents. She is a stickler for a welcoming atmosphere.
"That's key," she says. "Guests must always be greeted right away, and with a smile. They must never, never be left standing."
It's not as easy as it looks.
"It requires a great deal of preparation," Buckalew says. "You have a short time to make it a hit, and hope the guests love it as much as you do, and then you come back and do it again the next day."
Though Bellantoni's skills are in the kitchen, he enjoys an occasional circuit of the dining room, greeting the guests, perhaps discussing his signature steak Gaetano, or the night's homemade pasta.
His pride and joy are two gigantic Italian pasta machines that manufacture his perfect pastas.
"He communicates with those old machines," Buckalew says. "I sometimes hear him praising or yelling at them."
In Italian?
"Well, yes."
Though the room is expansive, seating about 85, it is warm and comfortable, with pastel tablecloths and napkins, large plates, lovely wine glasses and, always, an attentive waiter. A small, well-stocked bar is situated at the entrance.
About four years ago, the Buckalews opened the Cabana Bar immediately next door. It's a dramatic change of pace; it's where they let their hair down.
"On Monday nights, when Banana Tree is closed," Buckalew says, "we have DJ Monday at the Cabana with DJ Joey Capo, manager, and Nick and JP on duty. We dance in the aisles with music from the '60s, '70s and '80s. You should see Jerry do the Electric Slide — it's a vision."
The Cabana features burgers, pizza, salads and sandwiches. It's open for lunch Friday through Sunday and dinner every night except Tuesday. The Banana Tree Grille is open six nights, closed Mondays. For a complete menu, click here.
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