Nov. 23, 2008 — Though relatively new to the island and new at his job, Dale Adams summed up the appeal of Alexander's Bella Blu as well as a seasoned patron of the establishment would.
The affable waiter at the intimate eatery in Frenchtown says the art on the walls attracted him right off the bat, along with the ambiance.
"The atmosphere is different, it's a convivial family feeling, it's comfortable, and, of course, it's the really good food," he says. "I'm from San Francisco and for food like this, the venue would probably tend to be stuffy or pretentious."
That same atmosphere has prevailed for the past 27 years, and it is what new owner Brian André holds dear.
"I've changed a few things," he says, but the essential feel is not something tangible. "It's the warmth, folks who have dined or sipped a drink at the bar together for decades.
The restaurant is a Frenchtown landmark. Opened in 1982, only Hook Line and Sinker, formerly the Quarterdeck, has served food in the French community longer.
In the early 1980s, Austrian chef and baker par excellence Alex Treml first opened a little pastry stand with a couple of tables in a corner of the then Pelican's Pouch retail shop. When the shop closed in 1982, Treml expanded into the present locale. He was the owner for about 23 years until he sold the business to André in 2005.
André arrived on the island in 1994, looking to be "big fish in a small pond," rather than vice-versa in Florida. That pond was the wine business. When André was offered a job at West Indies Corporation, local wine distributor, he snapped up it up, packed his black-and-white female cat, Monroe, and the two set out for what has now become André's adopted home.
André traveled extensively for West Indies, gathering knowledge about wines, finally putting in a three-year stint at Room With a View as sommelier and waiter. By that time he had an urge to own his own restaurant, and Treml made him an offer he couldn't refuse.
"Alex waved me down one day," André says. "He said he was going back to Austria. We were long-time friends and he wanted me to take over. He made me a sweet deal."
By then Treml had changed the restaurant's name to Alexander's Bella Blu while also changing the look of the restaurant, much to the displeasure of most of his dedicated patrons. The restaurant went metal and modern — metal chairs, new and harsher lighting. The tablecloths and the flowers were gone, and with them much of the old atmosphere.
Little by little, André has restored the restaurant to its former ambiance.
"The chairs were uncomfortable," he says, "customers hated them."
At first he installed cushions on the chairs.
"Now the chairs are wooden with leather seats," he says, "The wood creates a warmer atmosphere. I wanted to tighten things up. I replaced the paper napkins with linen, put back tablecloths in the evening, put wine cards and flowering plants on the tables. I wanted to bring it up to the next level."
A self-described anal personality at work, André is indeed particular about details.
"That's very important in this business," he says. "I went to a 'fine dining' restaurant in Florida a while ago, and the salt and peppers were half empty, the silverware wasn't placed properly and the glasses were smudged. That's unacceptable."
Andrés wine list now includes wine by the glass, as well as bottles culled from his extensive wine background.
"Our wine list is affordable," he says, "as is the menu. People tend to think we're pricy, but we really aren't. We have half-portions of salads and pastas under $10." ("Alexander's Bella Blu, a New Menu for All Tastes.")
Treml has been showing local art for years, with frequent shows on Friday evenings coordinated by Claire Ochoa from Gallery St. Thomas until she moved off the island. The walls are now covered with interesting contemporary art by Emalee André, Brian's mother, an artist recognized for her mixed-media work.
André says he will soon capitalize on his investment in the neighborhood.
"The Tuscany grill right next door came up for sale," he says, "so I took it rather than facing competition."
The new restaurant, tentatively named The Whole Pie, will feature pizza (no slices) and artisan breads, and have a "less-expensive menu."
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